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Although there are over 450 different recorded cheeses made in Italy, most people are familiar with just a few, whether it be soft, moist mozzarella, sharp, oily provolone or dry, flaky Parmigiano. Italian cheeses are very regional and to appreciate them fully one must understand the geography and the culture of the country. Each region in Italy produces various specific varieties from the northern Alps to the boot and islands, and when it comes to cheeses, regional exclusivity is the norm. If you are visiting a city in Tuscany or one in Sicily, you should expect only those cheeses produced from that region to be sold with only a few exceptions.
Cheese production in Italy began as a need to preserve milk and to provide a source of protein for workers, travelers and families throughout the winter months. I will discuss the most famous varieties of Italian cheeses that can be readily found here in the Netherlands, as well as tips for storing cheese to best retain its freshness.

How to Keep and Serve Cheese:

It is best to keep cheese in a dark, humid, ventilated room at a constant temperature of about 7°-10° C. If you are refrigerating your cheese, it is best to store in the vegetable section in perforated paper or cheesecloth to allow air to go through. Always try to serve cheese at room temperature to allow the full flavor to develop.

Here are a few popular Italian cheeses found in the Netherlands:

Parmigiano Reggiano (so called “Parmesan”) - The king of Italian cheeses! Production of true Parmigiano Reggiano is carefully regulated and can only be made in a certain zone around the city of Parma and Reggio-Emilia (from which the cheese has been named after) between the months of April and November. To ensure you are buying "real" Parmigiano, look for the words “PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO” stamped all over the rind. Parmigiano is a grainy, firm cheese with full flavor, and well-aged cheese will be light straw colored. It is great just simply paired with fruit or good crusty bread and makes a tasty topping for most pasta dishes. When cooking with Parmigiano, often the simpler recipes such as “risotto al Parmigiano” allow the flavor of the cheese to shine through.

Grana Padano - This is Parmigiano's less prestigious and less expensive, but still excellent, cousin. It has its origins in medieval times , in the pastures surrounding the abbey at Chiaravalle (south of Milano).The trademark standard is protected by a regulatory board which oversees production in 27 provinces. This constitutes a much larger production area than that of Parmigiano Reggiano. The method of production for Grana is similar to that for Parmigiano, although the Grana tends to be denser and whiter. The best is produced with milk from summer months when the cows graze on fresh, green grass.

Gorgonzola - This cheese originates from the Po valley in Lombardy. This is another protected cheese with strict regulations and is now produced year round. Gorgonzola is a soft, creamy cheese with blue or green veins or flecks running through it. It has a strong pungent flavor, so a little goes a long way. I like to use this cheese in a cream sauce to top gnocchi in “gnocchi al gorgonzola” (gnocchi, which are a fresh pasta made with potatoes, dressed with a gorgonzola sauce) or in combination with other Italian cheeses in a sauce for “pasta ai quattro formaggi” (pasta with four cheeses).

Mozzarella & Co. - This is one of the most commonly sold Italian cheese in the world today, although most of the mozzarella we find in the grocery stores in Holland differs greatly in taste and texture from the fresh handmade versions made in Italy. Mozzarella can be eaten as a table cheese but most foreigners prefer to use it melted on pizza, lasagna and other baked dishes. The southern region Campania, is said to produce the best mozzarella in the world. It is made from the milk of water buffalo “mozzarella di bufala”. It is very perishable though, so use it soon after purchasing.
If you find good fresh mozzarella, one of the best ways to serve it is simply with a drizzle of good olive oil, as in my recipe for the famous “insalata caprese”. Another great recipe that uses mozzarella in a baked dish is “lasagne casalinghe” (home style lasagna).

Burrata - Burrata is a fresh very peculiar cheese, typical of the city of Andria, in the southern region Apulia. It contains an heart of mozzarella fragments and whipped cream all made from cow milk. On sale it is wrapped in sterile paper and lined with asfodelo leaves. It was born in the years '30, when one of the so many small cheese makers (today about 30 in Andria) who produced the "manteche" (seasoned cheese filled of butter), invented this product which had received large fortune.

Mascarpone - This cream cheese is a native of the Lombardia region of North Italy, which is also home to the fashion center of Milan and the town of Gorgonzola or blue cheese city, as we like to call it. The distinction 'cream cheese' is only half correct regarding mascarpone. It is made from the cream of cow’s milk, but no cheese starter or rennet is used in its production. The best-known use of this ultra-rich dairy product is in the preparation of a delicate desert which is Tiramisù. It is also delicious straight, topped with fresh berries or in a savory spread when mixed with anchovies, mustard and herbs.

Asiago - Here is another cow's milk cheese from northern Veneto, with a somewhat sharp flavor and can be found in three forms: soft, medium and hard. It is often eaten as a table cheese with a few slices of good salami, crusty bread and a fruity red wine such as Dolcetto d'Alba. It is great on certain pastas and is usually less expensive than Parmigiano.

Provolone - This popular cheese can be found throughout southern Italy. It is an oily, simple flavored cheese that acquires its flavor after it has been aged for several months. Often served in “panini” (italian sandwiches), but also in many other recipes like “involtini di asparagi” (asparagus rollups).

Pecorino - The most famous type of pecorino is Romano, although pecorino Sardo (made in Sardinia) is also readily available. It is another oily cheese made from sheep's milk with a sharp, salty flavor, that is to the southern Italians what Parmigiano is to those in Northern Italy. The flavor of pecorino intensifies that of simpler foods, such as you will find in my “fave con pecorino” recipe (fave beans with pecorino), or “bucatinii all’amatriciana” (bucatini dressed with amatriciana sauce, topped with grated pecorino).

Ricotta - Made from the by-product of cheese making, this "cheese" is actually a dairy product rather than a cheese. In Italy, ricotta is primarily made from the whey of sheep's milk and sometimes goat or cows milk. Fresh ricotta is used in the preparation of many famous Italian desserts such as “cannoli siciliani”, “pastiera napoletana”, “sfogliatelle” and more. Ricotta salata, a pressed, dried version made in Sicily and Apulia is the perfect topping for “pasta alla Norma”.

These are a just a few of more popular types of Italian cheeses, from the hundreds of varieties available.
The next time you are in a good cheese specialty store, ask the merchant to let you try a taste a few of the imported Italian cheeses. I am sure you will enjoy them as much as I do!